Machupicchu and Around

After meeting the Shaman and our very spiritual San Pedro Ceremony, we were so so ready to leave Cuzco. A beautiful and charming place, but, so much more developed than we have been used to; so it was a relief to leave the hustle and bustle.

We took a local bus back to Urubamba where we were hoping to see Marina and her friends at the market as we had printed some photos off for them. We were so glad they were there and they were completely thrilled when seeing their photos! After a few language difficulties we learned that they go to school until 12.30 daily and then have to work each afternoon (and weekend) at the market. When Wendy asked Marina what she likes to do in her free time, she replied that she has none... We invited them to stay with us if they ever get the chance to visit England... but then we keep doing that... we are going to end up with a house full of gorgeous S. Americans!

Urubamba

After yummy food and a great hostel (with bath and improvised plug made out of a plastic bag and a deoderant cap!) we travelled to Ollantaytambo which was so full of character we fell in love immediately. A small plaza surrounded by sacred mountains, Inca ruins and a fantastic cafe; Sacred Heart, run by an English lady who is raising money for the local school, orphans and local women who suffer from malnutrution. We were suprised to meet friends who shared our San Pedro Ceromany there too. Special.

... So at 7pm it was time to take the train to Machupicchu... It was an exciting feeling. The train was stinky diesel and better than Harry Potter! Even in the pitch black we could make out shadows of the most intimidating mountains... and the stars were amazing. Arriving at Aguas Calientes 1.5 hours later was not inspiring though... purely built as a doorway for tourists to access Machupicchu... so we bought our ticket; 124 soles each ( James had a Toby moment! tee) Early to bed as we werre getting up at 4am to catch one of the first busses up there.

Machupicchu

We actually got on the 4th bus the next morning and talk about hairpin bends. We could just make out the surounding mountains, truly breathtaking. After reaching the top and escaping people we were faced with a site we can´t quite describe. Quite unbelieveable actually, stunning. The position of this complete Inca City, the towering mountain of Huayna Piccu, the water channels, fountains, temples, terraces... We walked to the Inca bridge; pretty small when we got there but the walk through the green jungle was great, also the Sungate was pretty impressive and gave us great views over the city and valley.

After exploring for 5 hours we were ready for a well earned soak in the hot springs back in Agua Calientes... Heaven after the heat and dust. Not wanting to stay a moment longer in Agua, we decided to change our train ticket and stay a night in Ollantaytambo.

Ollantaytambo

Not impressed by the first hostel we checked out and not able to barter the ridiculous price down we found a 30 soles a night place (around 6 GBP for us both!) truly charming, courtyard with toilets/shower and upstairs to balcony rooms... kids in the courtyard... turkey on the roof! And later on... an unwelcome visitor; "what the f**k was that?" said James, "a rat, ... a f**king rat... oh my God!!" replied Wendy. Tee hee... luckily he was as shocked to see us as we were to see him and we don´t think he came back... however, we´ll never know for sure!

Ollantaytambo ruins

The self rightous Christian Spaniards had left their influence on this site too. It was one of the last Inca strongholds. 70 Spanish cavalry men stormed the site in a last attempt to conquer, however the Incas had a trick or two up their ponchos; by flooding the land around the site to make horse riding slow. In the end the Spaniards sent more troops and the battle didn´t go well for the Incas; consequently the temples at the site was, and remains, unfinished. The huge temple stones came from across the valley in which the River Urubamba resides; the Incas took the amazing steps of diverting the river in order to get the massive stones across...! The whole surrounding area of the ruins has Inca influence; terracing around the valley bottom and the town itself is Inca built with doorways and foundation walls remaining. Narrow cobbled streets and water ways built in. Gorgeous place.

Maras/Moray; A trip on the way to Pisac, a scientific centre of the Inca civilisation investigating eco systems.

After leaving our bags at a restaurant in Urubamba, we jumped onto a bus to Maras; the nearest town to the Moray ruins. Once there we jumped into a cab with a couple of Scots and enjoyed a good chat about Bolivia and Tiree. The ruins were not obvious as they are set in a natural valley. It was apparently a test bed to find the best growing conditions for crops as each level of the concentric circular terraces is said to have its own microclimate. The scale of the site was so impressive. There were also older similar terraced areas nearby...

Onto Pisac

We took a collectivo back to Urubamba and had eats at our favourite place, we are now regulars! They had kindly looked after our rucksacks for the day. We were asked for an English lesson by the waitress who inturn gave us a Spanish lesson, (much needed!). We are understanding more and more Spanish (sometimes Wendy is not sure how she knows... mystery... or maybe the San Pedro!) Hopefully we have enough to get us by in Bolivia...?

Another bus to Pisac. The first hostel we tried was $50 NO way! So we walked across the Plaza and found a lovely colonial place, much cheaper, (we think $50 a lie... they were pushing their luck!) Own bathroom, courtyard and very clean, (even by Wendy´s mums standards xxx!!!) James got up early next morning to see surrounding ruins... Wendy all ruined out! So a welcome sleep in... Adventurer Jimmy returns 3 hours later, meeting Wendy for breakfast in cafe in the Plaza, (cake and Pisco Sour the night before!) He is hot, very sweaty but happy after his exploring expedition.

The Plaza has been transformed this morning and not recognisable from the night before as it is market day... We bought a lovely crystal... small stuff only allowed as we can´t fit anymore in our bags.

Visions of San Pedro

We decided to take our journey to a whole other level by participating in a 3000 yr old Andian ceremony involving the San Pedro cactus - a native plant to this part of the world.
It is said to heal on spiritual, psychological and physical levels, and has even been proven to attack cancer.
Our guide was a modern shaman by the name of Lesley - a thoroughly positive and loving lady with lots of experience and a whole 'army' of plants in her magical garden where the ceremony took place high above Cuzco in the shadow of an ancient Inca temple of the moon where a black lamb was sacrificed each solstice.
San Pedro has the consistency of snot with a mild bitter taste so it's best to take it in one go and follow it up with a sweet.
Whilst we were at Lesley's house 3 native peruvian indians came to perform a ceremony to celebrate mother earth's birthday - which, lucky her lasts all August - even longer than Wendy's birthdays! These guys live above 6000m and are very in tune with the spirit of nature. Their tribe fled high into the mountains when the bastid Spanish invaded 500 yrs ago. They only started coming back down 15 yrs ago to sell their tribe's handicrafts for profit for their community. A very special occasion we were lucky to be part of.

Cuzco and around...

Met with Lotty and Paul in Cuzco which felt quite surreal and strange so see people we know from home... short but lovely... James found Wendy some Starburst and they got eaten pretty quickly as they were the first of the trip. We have spent 2 days in Cuzco just planning and chilling and having to reaclimatise to the altitude again... James is pretty much unaffected, Wendy feels pretty woozey and out of breath. Strange sensation to not have enough breath.

We sit quite often in the main plaza here, just drinking beer, eating sweets, Wendy has found some starburst substitutes..., pondering on our Shamen experience to come and being hassled abit by local children selling all kinds of stuff and so desperate to polish our shoes... no point even trying to polish our boots! Giving them sweets and James' choco snacks helps keep them happy...

We spending extra time in Cuzco and in the hostel we have found... plans keep changing, which is fine and the way we like it. We have met with two Shamen today... both were helpful, open and have given us plenty to think about... ... ...

Food has been generally great here with lots of choice for vegetarians. Wendy has some trouble with her chicken yesterday however when she was given very undercooked meat... we thought we had it sussed as had checked in our phrase book how to ask for well done... muy hecho por favore... but instead the waiter brought only some tomato ketchup!! Eventually they cooked it some more though... language barriers eh.

James had to run to flag down a local bus today... they stop wherever you want and we were heading to Urubamba to meet the Shamen. The bus was full up to burst with locals but no chickens! The locals are very curious of us but incredibly friendly. On the journey we saw breathtaking snow capped mountains all around us... we started to feel the magic of this sacred valley and the spirit of the mountains. It is very strong...

We spent the afternoon leisurely lunching and taking in the sights of Urubamba which is a gorgeous village surrounded by the inspiring mountains in the Sacred Valley. James had an ice cream in the plaza for his sweet fix and then we explored and found an amazing street... so busy... noise, smells, colours, music, dancing and a massive indoor fruit and veg market. As we were leaving here we were accosted by three local school girls who insisted we have some of their fresh fruit juice and practised their english on us... also teaching us some spanish in a very patient way. James was even forced to let them take photos with his precious camera, although there was a nervous look in his eye.!!!! We hope to see Marima, Elizabeth and Daila again in a couple of days where we have said we will try to print of the photos for them to keep... and if we do go to see them we will take little pressies too... they were truly gorgeous in everyway.

We got back to Cuzco via a collectivo, a shared taxi, which was a lot faster than the bus and a real squash on the backseat... James had to have another sweet moment when we got back and he had spotted a cake shop earlier in the day...mmm, his mind does seem preoccupied with cake and tartes... he was so obviously enjoying his cake that some fellow travellers wanted the some of the same, they even came to the same restaurant for dinner as the cake had a bonding effect!

Look out for the 'little people' in the photos... Wendy keeps collecting them and they are travelling everywhere with us... sharing their wisdom! They seem to know things. The Ecuadorian ones even went up the mountain with James when he did his extreme climb. Truly hardcore!

We are still constantly surprised and inspired by the people here, locals and fellow travellers alike. Seeing people so poor... who have absolutely nothing is very humbling... We are also loving observing the local children, young ones being carried around in customised blankets on their mothers' backs or older ones being cheeky and curious, and us giving strawberries or sweeties out... or soles...

A small word on hygiene... Wendy must wash and brush her hair soon... or maybe not... although James succummed for the 3rd shampoo of the trip. Wendy did treat herself to a gorgeous manicure and pedicure and does feel more like a girlie again and not such a complete minger! Thank you Eflu.

So here's to parsley tea and spiritual cleansing... we will let you know how our Shamen experience goes tomorrow...

Mancora; beach hut heaven...

When we had eaten we said goodbye to the boys and travelled to the beach by tuk tuk... a new favourite way of travelling. We weren´t sure whether there were any vacancies so were very pleased when they offered us our own beach hut with bathroom, shaded patio and hammock. It took us all of ten seconds to be sipping cool beer... The beach was full of pelicans and hundreds of crabs, who were extremely comical and fascinating to watch...

So we settled into a very chilling routines of morning walks by the ocean, breakfast made by our lovely hostess, markets and cafes with cake for James...

My t-shirts were beginning to take on a personality of their own so we got some well needed laundry done here. Clean pants, nice...

Crossing into PERU - Piura

We decided to take another night bus to move on from Vilcabamba in the direction of Mancora, Peru.

Talk about coincidences but we met up with our French-Canadian friend, Thierry, at the bus station AGAIN. He was also on his way to Mancora... really pleased to meet up with him again (third time now). The overnight bus was comfy albeit with no legroom. We slept lots - until we got to the Ecuador / Peru border that is at 4:30am when we had to jump off and do the passport paperwork and walk across the border bridge. At least it was a chance to stretch legs and have a pee! (even if it was behind a lorry!)

What a contrast to enter Peru. So dirty with piles of rubbish scattered at the roadside. We saw some sights that morning, including vultures scavenging. Once at Piura we we faced by the usual swarm of taxi drivers who would love our business. Wendy had asked a helpful receptionist at Vilcabamba for help and we had notes, so we knew we could walk to the next bus terminal for our connection, the taxi men were making out it was far but we walked it in 10 minutes with Thierry and two other French Canadians he had met along the way.

First we had to get some local currency - soles. Got that, but the cash machine gave too bigger notes for the bus company to accept so we had to visit a bank to change. While we were doing this Wendy was looking after the bags and was getting hassled to jump on the bus - but there were lots of heavy bags to move. She showed her muscles... and they seemed to understand that there was no way she could manage!

James and the other boys returned to the bus station just in time and we took another 4 hours to get to Mancora. Peru is certainly cheap, 2 beers, a coffee and sandwich for less than 3 quid. We saw our first glimpse at the Pacific ocean as the bus pulled down the mountain, around the bay... bright sunshine and blue skies... a dream come true for Wendy...

Vilcabamba - oasis in the Andes

Before we moved on from Latacunga we spent the day chilling out in a great hostel we`d found. Wendy really bonded with a dutch girl who worked there and the atmos and food were great. After the Cotopaxi climb attempt it was a welcome rest for me.

We took an overnight bus from Lajo - a decision which isn`t made lightly as it`s not the best conditions to sleep under, however it does save the cost of a night's accomodation..
From Lajo it was just an hours bus ride to Vilcabamba where we`d heard of and seen a brochure for a nice looking hostel that was surrounded by beautiful countryside.

To be honest the place was a let down - so much for expectations! Although the venue was amazing and the food was too, it was full of stuck-up people without the manners to say hello or return smiles - such a contrast from all our experiences so far. We had planned to move to a hostel in the local town but then we met a lovely couple called Toby & Belinda who had been travelling for best part of a year at this point and had lots of info and suggestions to offer us as they are travelling northwards having passed many of the places we had in mind to visit, so we stayed a second night and had a meal with them and a very interesting chat.

On our final day we went on a walk that was suggested by the hostel - a supposedly easy walk that quite nearly knackered Wendy beyond repair! (Sorry babe). To be honest we got lost and spent best part of an hour longer than we should have. I did make it up to Wendy by buying her a beer in Vilcabamba town which I can only describe as a concrete version of a spanish spaghetti western town. It was really beautiful - the main plaza had a lovely feel to it. We saw many locals trot through the square on horseback.

The Cotopaxi experience

Well what an adventure to attempt to climb one of the highest active volcanoes in the world and the second highest mountain in Ecuador.
After Wendy and Clover left at around 5pm I was shown the ropes, pardon the punn, of using crampons and an ice pick for the glacial part of the climb. I was being guided by a geezer called Gary?! (american dad, ecuadorian mum) and was joined by an argentinian called Jose. After resting and then eating I tried to sleep at the lodge - but with so many people coming and preparing their kit it was noisy, not to mention the fact there was no heating. To add to the misery my head was pounding due to the altitude and breathing was hard as it felt like someone was sat on my chest. I'd need to pant to catch my breath regularly - an odd sensation of feeling like I was suffocating in a way.
It went quiet for maybe an hour at most, then at around 11pm it was action stations as parties prepared themselves for the ascent. We got up around 12pm with no sleep, had some light bites and hot drinks whilst a group of bible bashers sang hymns - very surreal.
It was windy and obviously pitch black when we set off at around 1am. Seeing other parties up the slope was magical but also indicated just how much work we had ahead of us - from then on I just looked down! After an hour of soft ash where you slid back almost as much as you progressed we reached the snow line. The wind was strong and cold and it was carrying snow - great. We put our crampons on and put a rope between us all for safety - Gary up front, me in middle, Jose following. The snow was easier going as the crampons do such a good job but the snow and wind weren't letting up.
A couple of people were coming back down for whatever reason. Not so good for your positivity. After 3 hours of climbing with my breathing labouring to the max all the way and an increasing sense of feeling sick to my stomach, we met a guide who was coming back down with his party and advised we aborted due to the extreme weather. To be totally honest it was a godsend as I was in no shape to carry on to the summit which is a further 3 hours climb followed by a 3 hour descent - it would have been suicide.
So we about faced and started our descent. It was only then did I realise just how steep the path was - we took it very easy. An hour later we were back at the lodge - 5am, 4hours of hard graft. We had tea and went back to bed and tried to sleep but it was freezing and noisy as others also returned.
We heard later that morning that only a few actually made it to the summit - and they were parties who left later when the weather had let up for them.
So I got back to Latacunga for around midday where I was met by Wendy who'd had a night of wine and nachos with Clover.
We are chilling out today in a lovely hostel / cafe we've found (pictured) - catching an overnight bus to Lajo, then making our way to a hostel that looks amazingly chilled for a couple of nights in Vilcabamba.
Then onto Peru and the jungle....

Latacunga and Cotopaxi Mountain

Although we were sad to leave our friends in Quito, we quickly met with Clover from Seattle, on our bus. She was also heading to Latacunga and wanting to climb Cotopaxi. So... as we stand at the moment, James is currently 4800m halfway up a mountain/volcano and Wendy in around 3000m in Latacunga... Clover and Wendy made an hours climb in very high altitude to the climber´s refuge, had chicken and rice and then climbed/slid down again as the path underfoot is all volcanic ash... however James´s adventure just begins as he is staying in the refuge and getting up around midnight to start the ascent to the summit.. 5897m...as we left he was about to practise with his ice axe and crampons, it will take him around 6 hours to get to the crater at the top, only 33% of attempts succeed... many climbers cannot make it due to the extreme altitude... Clover and I could barely breath at 4800m... literally deep inhalations and gasping... and feeling very sick also is normal... but we will see... Good luck James... xxx

Watch out for the most amazing photographs to come, unfortunately I am not able to upload any now as James has the camera... for obvious reasons...

Goodbye Quito and our new friends

Leaving Quito was quite emotional as we had made such good friends with the owners of our hostel...and also our favourite internet cafe... but onwards... we took a slow morning to say our goodbyes and of course enjoy our last spagetti bolognese here...

To save some dollar we decided to give the trolley bus another go but it is so so crowded that there is no way we could even fit without our bags so we shared a taxi with a very mental Ecuadorian/New Yorker... who flagged down an unofficial taxi and got us a good deal for our dollar! (By the way mum (Pat) he talked more than me or even Kathryn!!!)

Crossing into Ecuador and Quito

We met a French-Canadian at the Colombian-Ecuador border who spoke both English and enough Spanish to help us make bus connections. We travelled with him all the way to Quito, yes another bus! but only 4 hours this time. We lost him on a bus heading into Quito town cos we got off a stop too early..and he couldn´t get off as its sardines in a can... doh. We didn´t even know his name, but as luck would have it, the next day when we were walking around the old Colonial area of Quito, we bumped into him.. we´re hoping to arrange a trek together up Cotopaxi (the highest Volcano in South America).

We´re staying at a hostel that we found advertised in Bogota - a Mum, Marta and daughter, Fern, are our hosts in a beautiful house - they´ve made us feel very welcome - a true home from home. We keep getting lovely hugs from Marta and she officially makes the best coffee we have tasted so far...

Quito is certainly more developed than Colombia, it feels more wealthy with BMWs being driven around and lots more varied shops. However on a bus ride into town yesterday Wendy had her bag slashed by someone - we didn´t see who or to be honest when it happened exactly but the bus ride into town was packed and it was the only opportunity anyone would have had. Luckily the shits got nothing out of it - however it shook us up a bit that it had happened without us noticing. Don´t worry mummy (of Wendy) xxx I am fine and i have even stitched up the cut with a sewing kit that James has had since he travelled Thailand... even though he told me not to pack it as we wouldn´t need it! Marta wasn´t that impressed with the stitching however!

Quito old town is beautiful place, fantastic architecture, gorgeous foods, views, amazing. A real surprise. We have relaxed here easily and have even learned some new phrases in Spanish.

Unsure of when our next blog will be... heading south for Cotopaxi tomorrow or next day...

Love and kisses xxx James and Wendy